If you ever get to shoot in some truly amazing outdoor locations, it's really a very humbling photograp
hic experience. You set up your tripod, look in your viewfinder, and it happens you begin to silently sob. You're sobbing because you bought all this expensive camera gear, with multiple camera bodies and lenses that cost more than a Car, you've got more filters than a Camera store, and your camera bag weighs approximately 10 lbs. You saved all year, took your two-week vacation from work, bought round-trip airfare, now you're looking through your viewfinder and what you see doesn't look half as good as the postcards in the park's gift shop that sell for Rs 2 each. Tears begin to stream down your face as you realize that you're not going to get the shot you came for. And whose fault is all this? Even though we're not Ansel Adam, we can surely get better photos than the ones in the gift shop, right?
The Golden Rule of Landscape Photography
There's a golden rule of landscape photography, and you can follow every tip in this chapter, but without strictly following this
rule, you'll never get the results the top pros do. As a landscape photographer, you can only shoot two times a day: (1) dawn. You can shoot about 15 to 30 minutes before sunrise, and then from 30 minutes to an hour (depending on how harsh the light becomes) afterward. The only other time you can shoot is: (2) dusk. You can shoot from 15 to 30 minutes before sunset, and up to 30 minutes afterward. Why only these two times? Because that's the rule. Okay, there's more to it than that. These are the only times of day when you get the soft, warm light and soft shadows that give professional quality lighting for landscapes. The point is, professional landscape photographers shoot at those two times of day, and only those two times. If you want pro results, those are the only times you'll be shooting, too.
Now read the following short but to the point article from Sri Suman Srivastava AIIPC and know the essentials of Landscape photography………Rajendra Prasad ARPS
hic experience. You set up your tripod, look in your viewfinder, and it happens you begin to silently sob. You're sobbing because you bought all this expensive camera gear, with multiple camera bodies and lenses that cost more than a Car, you've got more filters than a Camera store, and your camera bag weighs approximately 10 lbs. You saved all year, took your two-week vacation from work, bought round-trip airfare, now you're looking through your viewfinder and what you see doesn't look half as good as the postcards in the park's gift shop that sell for Rs 2 each. Tears begin to stream down your face as you realize that you're not going to get the shot you came for. And whose fault is all this? Even though we're not Ansel Adam, we can surely get better photos than the ones in the gift shop, right?The Golden Rule of Landscape Photography
There's a golden rule of landscape photography, and you can follow every tip in this chapter, but without strictly following this
rule, you'll never get the results the top pros do. As a landscape photographer, you can only shoot two times a day: (1) dawn. You can shoot about 15 to 30 minutes before sunrise, and then from 30 minutes to an hour (depending on how harsh the light becomes) afterward. The only other time you can shoot is: (2) dusk. You can shoot from 15 to 30 minutes before sunset, and up to 30 minutes afterward. Why only these two times? Because that's the rule. Okay, there's more to it than that. These are the only times of day when you get the soft, warm light and soft shadows that give professional quality lighting for landscapes. The point is, professional landscape photographers shoot at those two times of day, and only those two times. If you want pro results, those are the only times you'll be shooting, too.Now read the following short but to the point article from Sri Suman Srivastava AIIPC and know the essentials of Landscape photography………Rajendra Prasad ARPS
LANDSCAPE – ESSENTIALS TO REMEMBER
By Sri Suman Srivastava AIIPC
T
here is a general misnomer that a photograph of a sea, river & mountains do not constitute a Landscape. However, the fact remains that a Landscape picture constitutes of either land (obviously), sea, river, mountain/hills, or combination of any of these but without a distinct presence of human figure in it. But if a very non-distinct human figure or a structure (like hut/boats etc) adds to overall view of the picture, it is permitted. An ideal Landscape picture essentially has to have a centre- point (we refer it as the subject) any where in the format but not in the dead centre of the
format- that is against the grammar of composition. However, it is said that some time you must break the rule/grammar if you genuinely justify it.
A Landscape may include clouds in its composition but alone ‘Cloud’ can not constitute a Landscape picture.
Essential Components:
1. Lens:
Lenses having focal lengths ranging from 18 mm to 200 mm (in stray cases even 300 mm).Preferred photo taking apertures should be from f 8 to f 16 if you are using lens having focal length 70 mm and above. If it is less than 70 mm you can use even f 5.6, if there is a compulsion. One should in all probability avoid extreme f numbers for they lead to certain kinds of error (viz., Achromatic Aberration & Diffraction) and ultimately reflect in the picture in form of reduced sharpness and resolution.
2. Film:
However, in all kind of photography slow speed films are preferred but if it comes to Landscape then ISO 100 (if less than ISO 100 possible better) or utmost ISO 200 are preferred choice. For they provide better tonal range & sharpness.
3. Exposure:
Exposure affects the rendering both of detail and of atmosphere. Under or over exposure always tend to give frustrating results.
Over-exposure will ruin the quality and detail of the highlights, Under-exposure will lose us th
e detail in shadows. But there are occasions when it becomes essential to decide whether to expose mainly for the highlight areas or the shadows.
If you are taking pictures on negatives take exposure of low key (shadow) area or in case if you are shooting on a chrome films then exposure of high key area will give you saturated and a good color balance. (This rule of exposure is universal). The ideal exposure for a landscape can be read through a ‘Grey-Card’.
4. Filters:
Since, we are discussing in light of color pictures only – let us confine it to the ‘filters’ that facilitate us in recording a good color Landscape.
First & foremost is a Polarizer- this helps in recording the sky portion of the Landscape with its full characters and while shooting snow in sun, helps in polarizing excessive sun rays and thereby ensures balanced tonal gradations. Avoid this filter when you desire the falling shadows of the trees/hills etc in the pond / river which are very much the part of your frame but to eliminate the shadows if so desired, use it. Conversion Filters- viz., Amber filter ( 81 A ) & Blue filter ( 80 B ) – While shooting very early in the morning or late in the after noon you get yellowish/reddish tone in your picture due to low Kelvin color temp., so as to balance that you have to use 80 B filter. And while shooting in the noon color temperature being in excess (Kelvin is the unit to denote color temp.) bluish tone/cast is there in the picture so as to balance that you have to use 81 A filter. Though, the color lab if instructed properly can remove the color cast while making print enlargement but you essentially have to use these filters while using Chrome films. Three more filters are required in Landscape photography viz., UV Filter (on high altitude) Graduated Filter & Neutral Density Filter. You may find many more filters in books but only unavoidable filters; I have taken up over here in light of Landscape photography.
However, for making landscapes in B&W – Yellow, Yellow-Green, Orange filters (just to name a few) are essential and can help in creating dramatic/incredible landscapes.
5. Tripod-
Tripod is another very important tool to get razor sharp images and does help significantly by allowing you to use desired f number in a situation where you cannot select desired or fast shutter speed.
6. The Right Lighting-
There is a famous saying that the finest of the Camera does not produce sparkling pictures in dull light and this is all the more true when it comes to shoot ‘Landscape’. Lighting as you know is the most important component in p’graphy. For a lively Landscape with a universal appeal, eminent photographers do wait hrs/days together for appropriate lighting condition. No compromise what- so-ever it may be is recommended. Light, mood & theme are the important constituents of pictorial photography.
1. From the front – Flat sunshine from behind the camera is rarely effective for the shadows are hidden from the view and the result is flat. This kind of lighting can, however, be very suitable for landscapes that are mainly cloudscapes – mostly sky with possibly only a strip of earth.
2. From the side – A more favourable position for the sun is to the side of the subject, a little to the front. This gives good relief. If the sun is quite low, render long decorative shadows.
3. Sunsets – The most photographically appealing effects are obtained when the sun is not too low and is concealed by a heavy and interestingly shaped cloud. But do not under-expose or thing will become too black at a time over dramatic.
4. Fog, - Fog produces very pleasing effects for the camera, for color is almost eliminated. It is best to work in to the light so that the dim shapes are silhouetted against the soft glow. It is also important to have some well defined objects in the near foreground to give perspective.
A light morning mist, with the sun almost breaking through is particularly suitable for woodland pictures.
And there could be many more lighting conditions.
And lastly, do not forget that the camera is mobile-and hence, lighting can always be changed by a change of viewpoint and so the Composition-that is so very vital. Landscape can be framed horizontally as well as vertically both but ensure that the horizon line is straight – no excuse. And it should not be in the middle of the frame i.e., horizon line should not divide the frame in two equal parts; it should be on the either side of the frame.
For those who resort to digital medium/photography for LANDSCAPE, they should too follow the universal rules enumerated above like while taking landscapes they should preferably fix the ISO at 100/200. As regard to filter is concerned they should essentially use Polarizer especially if they include sky in their Landscape picture. And for making B&W landscapes, they can resort to Photoshop – there they would find many filters too including warm filter i.e. 81 A or in case, if the camera permits to shoot in B&W they can do so and can use recommended B&W filters.
here is a general misnomer that a photograph of a sea, river & mountains do not constitute a Landscape. However, the fact remains that a Landscape picture constitutes of either land (obviously), sea, river, mountain/hills, or combination of any of these but without a distinct presence of human figure in it. But if a very non-distinct human figure or a structure (like hut/boats etc) adds to overall view of the picture, it is permitted. An ideal Landscape picture essentially has to have a centre- point (we refer it as the subject) any where in the format but not in the dead centre of the
format- that is against the grammar of composition. However, it is said that some time you must break the rule/grammar if you genuinely justify it.A Landscape may include clouds in its composition but alone ‘Cloud’ can not constitute a Landscape picture.
Essential Components:
1. Lens:
Lenses having focal lengths ranging from 18 mm to 200 mm (in stray cases even 300 mm).Preferred photo taking apertures should be from f 8 to f 16 if you are using lens having focal length 70 mm and above. If it is less than 70 mm you can use even f 5.6, if there is a compulsion. One should in all probability avoid extreme f numbers for they lead to certain kinds of error (viz., Achromatic Aberration & Diffraction) and ultimately reflect in the picture in form of reduced sharpness and resolution.
2. Film:
However, in all kind of photography slow speed films are preferred but if it comes to Landscape then ISO 100 (if less than ISO 100 possible better) or utmost ISO 200 are preferred choice. For they provide better tonal range & sharpness.
3. Exposure:
Exposure affects the rendering both of detail and of atmosphere. Under or over exposure always tend to give frustrating results.
Over-exposure will ruin the quality and detail of the highlights, Under-exposure will lose us th
e detail in shadows. But there are occasions when it becomes essential to decide whether to expose mainly for the highlight areas or the shadows.If you are taking pictures on negatives take exposure of low key (shadow) area or in case if you are shooting on a chrome films then exposure of high key area will give you saturated and a good color balance. (This rule of exposure is universal). The ideal exposure for a landscape can be read through a ‘Grey-Card’.
4. Filters:
Since, we are discussing in light of color pictures only – let us confine it to the ‘filters’ that facilitate us in recording a good color Landscape.
First & foremost is a Polarizer- this helps in recording the sky portion of the Landscape with its full characters and while shooting snow in sun, helps in polarizing excessive sun rays and thereby ensures balanced tonal gradations. Avoid this filter when you desire the falling shadows of the trees/hills etc in the pond / river which are very much the part of your frame but to eliminate the shadows if so desired, use it. Conversion Filters- viz., Amber filter ( 81 A ) & Blue filter ( 80 B ) – While shooting very early in the morning or late in the after noon you get yellowish/reddish tone in your picture due to low Kelvin color temp., so as to balance that you have to use 80 B filter. And while shooting in the noon color temperature being in excess (Kelvin is the unit to denote color temp.) bluish tone/cast is there in the picture so as to balance that you have to use 81 A filter. Though, the color lab if instructed properly can remove the color cast while making print enlargement but you essentially have to use these filters while using Chrome films. Three more filters are required in Landscape photography viz., UV Filter (on high altitude) Graduated Filter & Neutral Density Filter. You may find many more filters in books but only unavoidable filters; I have taken up over here in light of Landscape photography.
However, for making landscapes in B&W – Yellow, Yellow-Green, Orange filters (just to name a few) are essential and can help in creating dramatic/incredible landscapes.
5. Tripod-
Tripod is another very important tool to get razor sharp images and does help significantly by allowing you to use desired f number in a situation where you cannot select desired or fast shutter speed.
6. The Right Lighting-
There is a famous saying that the finest of the Camera does not produce sparkling pictures in dull light and this is all the more true when it comes to shoot ‘Landscape’. Lighting as you know is the most important component in p’graphy. For a lively Landscape with a universal appeal, eminent photographers do wait hrs/days together for appropriate lighting condition. No compromise what- so-ever it may be is recommended. Light, mood & theme are the important constituents of pictorial photography.
1. From the front – Flat sunshine from behind the camera is rarely effective for the shadows are hidden from the view and the result is flat. This kind of lighting can, however, be very suitable for landscapes that are mainly cloudscapes – mostly sky with possibly only a strip of earth.
2. From the side – A more favourable position for the sun is to the side of the subject, a little to the front. This gives good relief. If the sun is quite low, render long decorative shadows.
3. Sunsets – The most photographically appealing effects are obtained when the sun is not too low and is concealed by a heavy and interestingly shaped cloud. But do not under-expose or thing will become too black at a time over dramatic.
4. Fog, - Fog produces very pleasing effects for the camera, for color is almost eliminated. It is best to work in to the light so that the dim shapes are silhouetted against the soft glow. It is also important to have some well defined objects in the near foreground to give perspective.
A light morning mist, with the sun almost breaking through is particularly suitable for woodland pictures.
And there could be many more lighting conditions.
And lastly, do not forget that the camera is mobile-and hence, lighting can always be changed by a change of viewpoint and so the Composition-that is so very vital. Landscape can be framed horizontally as well as vertically both but ensure that the horizon line is straight – no excuse. And it should not be in the middle of the frame i.e., horizon line should not divide the frame in two equal parts; it should be on the either side of the frame.
For those who resort to digital medium/photography for LANDSCAPE, they should too follow the universal rules enumerated above like while taking landscapes they should preferably fix the ISO at 100/200. As regard to filter is concerned they should essentially use Polarizer especially if they include sky in their Landscape picture. And for making B&W landscapes, they can resort to Photoshop – there they would find many filters too including warm filter i.e. 81 A or in case, if the camera permits to shoot in B&W they can do so and can use recommended B&W filters.
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